Yellowstone - 16-17 June 2010

16/06/10

The morning dawned bright and blue and we drove out of Buffalo, Wyoming after picking up a few camping provisions (canned food, red wine, etc…)
Before long we were climbing through the Big Horn Mountains, surrounded by snowy peaks and stunning pine forests.

Shortly after, we were again crossing the high plains of Wyoming. The skies began to darken a bit. In the afternoon, we passed through the small town of Cody and drove through a shattering thunderstorm in the hills beyond.

Before long we were passing the gates of Yellowstone. We entered through the East gate and climbed among the mountain passes on the way into the park.
There was snow laying about everywhere. The day was about 25 degrees earlier but was now headed for 10, with a bit of drizzle about by this time.

We stopped in a general store and I bought a woollen cap. We knew it would get cold tonight. We were blessed to see some bison and elk grazing by the side of the road.
It was about 6pm when we luckily got booked into one of the campgrounds in the park.

We checked out the visitors’ centre, settled into our campsite, had tomato soup for dinner and warmed ourselves by the campfire as the outside temperature dropped.

Before turning in, we attended a talk about the elk, from one of the rangers. It was informative but really getting cold, so we were glad to get back to the van, and our bed.


17/06/10

We had a terrible night’s sleep last night. The main reason for this was that Pia got quite a chill last night and took forever to warm up. It was really much colder than we had anticipated. We both slept poorly and woke with a chill whenever we moved in our sleep.

When we got up and moving this morning, it was beyond being merely bitter cold. It was a brutal cold. The guy at the campsite next door told us it had got down to 26f the night before. That’s about -3c. Talk about cold. Still, it would get warmer once the sun came up right?

We packed up and headed out to a general store to buy Pia a better jacket because she was freezing. Then it started to snow. Blowing snow that lay on the ground and came in sideways, thanks to a crushing wind that made your hands and face somehow numb and throb at the same time. In the end it didn’t rise above 32f (0c) until after lunch and the snow came and went all day. It’s one week until summer solstice here. Usually the temp would be in the 90s (30s c) at this time of year. Weird weather.

This may be a good time to mention that when you are buying a $1000 van to tour the USA, you have to make some compromises. Our van has no heater. At all. So the outside temp is just below freezing and the wind chill factor is about -15 or better and we’re driving around in a van with no heater and the windows cracked open because the glass keeps fogging up. It was quite cold actually. Even in four layers of clothes, we were freezing.

Nevertheless, we had a great time today. We walked around several hot springs. We saw Old Faithful and the Midway Springs. We saw more bison, a grizzly bear cub and nearly hit a damned elk that jaywalked right in front of us. She didn’t even use a crossing.

We saw a beautiful spot called Fire Hole Lake and drove up Fire Hole Canyon which was very beautiful. The scenery is just the most beautiful and yet, in places, really otherworldly. The smell of the sulphur is strong sometimes when the wind blows the steam from the hot springs right over you, but at least it’s warm for a moment. Again we were struck by the fact that they have no safety rails. They just trust people to do the right thing and most of them do.

We were both sick to our stomachs a bit today, and were very tired from not sleeping last night. Tonight’s supposed to get below freezing again so we tried to get a cabin or hotel room in the park (the park’s huge) but it was all booked out.

So, having seen much of the southern half of the park today, we left through the West exit and got an (overpriced) hotel room in the town of West Yellowstone. But it’s the middle of the tourist season here at Yellowstone and the hotels aren’t hurting for custom. They can name their price. Especially after last night. We priced several hotels and I saw a few other people doing the same who were camping last night. I’ll bet the campgrounds at the park aren’t full tonight.

It was nice to have a hot shower and dress in only one layer of clothes.

Mother buffalo and calf. There was a whole herd grazing.

Star Pool

Prismatic Lake, Midway Geysers

Prismatic Lake, Midway Geysers

Thar she blows. Old Faithful, being faithful.

Old Faithful

Crater at Midway Geysers

Two cold campers at Old Faithful, still below freezing at this point

Crater at Midway

Lake Yellowstone

Boiling Pool. Outside air freezing

A very rugged up Mark, four layers and still freezing

An elk crossing the road and she didn't even use the crosswalk.

Sylvan Lake, still partially iced over from the previous winter.